‘VINO SFUSO’ IN VENICE

In the hot summer months, Maureen and I enjoy refreshing wines from the Veneto region of Italy. We discovered many of them on our first trip to Venice. There are dozens of excellent seafood restaurants to choose from in Venice, but one we really enjoyed (on the suggestion of my cousin Mary Beth and her husband Ed) is Corte Sconta in the Castello district. This intimate trattoria specializes in traditional Venetian seafood dishes. Our meal was accompanied by one of the Veneto region’s best white wines, a light dry Prosecco. Prosecco can be sparkling or flat, but even the sparkling type is not overwhelming and makes it a perfect food wine.

CORTE SCONTA, Calle del Pestrin, Castello 3886, Phone: 041-5227024

One of the most fun things to do in Venice is to wander the back streets and alleys away from the touristy areas. This was how Maureen found the Vino e Vini enoteca in the Castello district. This friendly enoteca offered tastings of eight Veneto wines that it sells to neighborhood customers as ‘vino sfuso da tavola,’ or ‘open wine’ meant for immediate consumption. The wine is siphoned directly from large damagiane, which are 54-litre cane-covered containers, into 2-litre plastic water bottles. The wines included several whites: Pinot Bianco del Veneto, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Tocai Friulano (our favorite); and several reds, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Bardolino.

The wines are also sold in corked bottles. In addition, the enoteca has a wide selection of DOC and DOCG wines from all across Italy, as well as a good selection of imported and Italian beers.

VINO E… VINI ENOTECA, 3301 Castello, Fondamenta dei Furlani, Phone: (41) 5210184

We stayed at a wonderful pensione in the Castello district, Hotel Pensione Bucintoro. It is located on the waterfront next to the Naval Museum, just a short walk from the Arsenale stop of the vaparetto. Every room in Pensione Bucintoro has a view overlooking the lagoon. Rates are reasonable considering the waterfront spot and breakfast is included.

HOTEL PENSIONE BUCINTORO, Riva Schiavoni, 2135, Phone: (41) 5223240

For maps, links and photos please view our Venice guide at www.kilkelly.com/venice.html.

Ciao,
Bernie