Mezes are rapidly replacing tapas and antipasto in New York with the profusion of new Greek restaurants hitting the scene. Both high-end refined, inventive Greek fare and restaurants offering more rustic, traditional cuisine are proving popular in the Big Apple.
Leading the Greek odyssey is dream team:Chef Michael Psilakis and the stylish hostess-with-the- mostess Donatella Apraia. This is their third pairing. First was Onera, where Psilakis turns Greek Classics inside out for a contemporary spin. Then they opened Dona, which offers a blend of Greek and Italian cuisine such as the lobster tail poached in a rich, velvety avgolemono, the famous Greek lemon-and-egg soup, or zucchini chocolate cake served with a scoop of walnut gelato, spiked with a hint of thyme.
Their brand new venture is the pricey Anthos, which means blossoming in Greek. The menu’s three way lamb, Lamb Chop, Loin & Mousaka- jerusalem artichoke puree, garlic confit sounds interesting, as does the Grilled Octopus- orange puree, tsakistes olives, chicory, garlic.
But some of his dishes seem to have waaay too much is going on: Hilopita- egg noodle, rabbit, snails, black truffle, manouri cheese. However, I’d say a visit in order simply to scarf down pastry chef’s Bill Corbett’s sugar-coated donuts . “Warm doughy nibbles are meant to be dunked in a luscious bourbon-spiked honey, accompanied by an addictive honey ice cream.”
$25 and $38 prix fixes are available at lunch, there’s a $38 pre-theater menu at dinner, and an $85 chef’s tasting menu that includes Psilakis coming out to talk. (And $100 if you don’t want him to talk… just kidding)
A: 36 W. 52nd St., New York, NY 10019 (near Fifth Avenue).
[Editor’s Note: Chef Psilakis has also appeared on Iron Chef America.]
By Vagablond’s Token Redhead.